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With its origins in the Art Deco designs of the 1920s,Cartier's 'Tutti Frutti' style has become one of the most sought-after jewellery motifs to this day. The design is a distinct multicultural fusion of Eastern and Western influences. By combining colourful Indian carved stones with the period’s monochromatic trends, Cartier upheld their motto: "never copy, always create."
The term ‘Tutti Frutti’ was coined in the 1970s and copyrighted by Cartier in 1989. Its roots trace back to 1901, when Queen Alexandra of the United Kingdom commissioned Pierre Cartier to create a necklace to complement her colourful Indian gowns. This piece, adorned with rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, was a foundational influence for Cartier’s 'Tutti Frutti' jewellery.
Jacques Cartier drew further inspiration during his 1911 trip to India for the Delhi Durbar, where he encountered Maharajas adorned with vibrant jewels. Captivated by their ornamentation, Cartier sourced the most exquisite gems and antiquities to be sold from the London branch to the European elite.
By 1925, “Art Deco” was officially recognized at the Paris Exposition des Art Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. The Cartier brothers emerged as trendsetters; their designs blending Western clean lines with Eastern carved gems and colourful beads were heralded as a celebration of global cultures and creativity.
Initially referred to as the “foliage” line or “pierres de couleur,” these pieces featured carvings of flowers and leaves, with many stones varying in quality and colours. Their popularity surged after the crash of 1929, signalling the public’s desire for vibrancy and novelty.
Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, 'Tutti Frutti' designs flourished, inspiring jewellers across Europe and America. Notable figures like Daisy Fellowes commissioned the exquisite “Collier Hindou” necklace in 1936,while Marjorie Merriweather Post requested a pendant with Mughal emeralds. These commissions elevated the style and its popular legacy further.
As World War II approached, jewellery design shifted from the delicacy of Art Deco to the boldness of the Retro period. Nevertheless, Cartier's timeless 'Tutti Frutti' creations endure, remaining coveted by collectors today. Each piece tells a story of cultural fusion and artistic innovation, embodying the prestige of the iconic Cartier house.
Buying at Auction and the Role of Antiques in a Modern Home
Important Irish Art Auction Highlights
Oliver Dowling Collection by Aidan Dunne
2024 is a year in which Adam’s wants to recognise the key role buying antique furniture and furnishings at auction contributes greatly to the sustainable initiative. In 2019 the Environmental Protection Agency reported stark figures that each year in Ireland 1.2 million reusable bulky items, primarily furniture goes into landfill. Similar to the problem of ‘fast fashion’, the constant production and consumption of new items is leading to rapidly growing waste problem. We want to acknowledge those who are already buying second hand or antique furniture at auction and to encourage new buyers by highlighting the benefits of acquiring affordable, well-made quality items that are built to last.
Irish author, recipe creator and lifestyle influencer, Indy Parsons, selects her favourite pieces from our upcoming Fine Jewellery & Watches auction
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Cork-born Irish actress, Sarah Greene, selects her favourite pieces from our upcoming Fine Jewellery & Watches auction
Yvonne Aupicq had met Orpen, we understand, while working as a nurse during the war. He had been admitted to hospital with a suspected case of scabies which ended up being a far more serious case of blood poisoning as he recounts in his wartime memoir ‘An Onlooker in France’. Their relationship continued after 1918 when Orpen was appointed as the official artist to The Paris Peace Conference. They relocated to capital and over the following decade he painted her numerous times, often nude as in Amiens 1914, or The Rape and Nude Girl Reading (1921). Working with her as his model during these early years after the war allowed Orpen an opportunity to re-fuel his creativity.
Editor-in-Chief of IMAGE Publications, Lizzie Gore-Grimes, selects her favourite pieces from our upcoming Fine Jewellery & Watches auction
Our upcoming Fine Jewellery & Watches auction on September 13th features a prime example of Van Cleef & Arpel's renowned 'Mystery Setting'
Our June auction offers a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to acquire one of the great masterpieces of Irish art and icons of Dublin’s history.
Georgia Chiesa selects some of her favourite lots in the upcoming Vintage Wine & Spirits Auction
"Beating the bounds is a tradition that can be traced back to the medieval period. At this time, land was divided into parishes and the clergy and church wardens held the responsibility for its upkeep and management. It was up to the Church to ensure that its parishioners knew the local boundary lines and, before maps became commonplace, this had to be kept as a mental record."
Adam’s in conjunction with Suzanne MacDougald are proud to host an online timed auction of artworks to aid the Irish Red Cross’s humanitarian work in delivering vital services to millions of people impacted by the conflict in Ukraine. With no buyers premium 100% of the hammer price will go directly to the Irish Red Cross.
Ros Drinkwater writes of Jack B Yeats' 'The Boat' in the Business Post:
With a consolidated result of €320,000,the At Home sale in Stephan’s Green, was a great success.
James Adam & Sons Ltd, Fine Art Auctioneers and Valuers, 26 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2,
D02 X665, Ireland
