menu
Departments
.svg)
.png)
The Enduring Appeal of the Red Submariner
Few watches embody the transition from utilitarian tool to collector’s icon as convincingly as the Rolex Submariner reference 1680.
Introduced in the late 1960s, the reference 1680 marked an important milestone for Rolex as the first Submariner to feature a date complication. While this added practicality to an already robust diving instrument, it is not the date that defines the earliest examples of the reference, but a small yet striking detail on the dial. The Submariner line printed in red.
A Signature That Defines a Generation
In our upcoming Fine Watches sale on May 13th, we are pleased to offer a particularly attractive example of the reference 1680, featuring an early “Red Submariner” dial.
Produced during the early years of the reference, these dials are distinguished by the “Submariner” designation printed in red, a subtle variation that has since become one of the most recognisable and desirable traits in vintage Rolex collecting.
On the present watch, this signature sits harmoniously within a well-preserved matte black dial. The configuration corresponds to a “Mark IV” dial, identifiable by its “feet first” depth rating(“660ft = 200m”) and characteristic open “6” in the typography. The tritium hour markers and hands have developed an even, warm patina, enhancing the depth and character of the dial.
From Instrument to Icon
At its core, the Submariner was conceived as a professional diving tool.
The 40mm stainless steel case, screw-down crown and case back, and rotating bezel all speak to its functional origins.
Powered by the robust Rolex calibre1570, the reference 1680 represents a period of technical maturity for the brand, where reliability, legibility, and durability were paramount.
Yet, over time, these watches have transcended their original purpose. What was once worn underwater has become a cornerstone of vintage collecting, appreciated as much for its aesthetics and history as for its functionality.
A Detail Shared by Icons
Much like the red “Daytona” signature found on early Cosmo graph models, the red “Submariner” line has become a defining element for collectors. Subtle, yet instantly recognisable.
It is precisely this type of restrained detail that transforms an already iconic model into something more nuanced, more specific, and ultimately more collectible.
An Attractive and Complete Example
The present watch offers the qualities that collectors consistently look for:
An early “Red Submariner” dial with balanced, attractive patina
A well-preserved matte dial with tritium indexes and hands
A strong stainless steel case showing honest wear
Its original Rolex bracelet, contributing to the overall coherence of the piece
Accompanied by box and papers, as well as an additional plexiglass
The Red Submariner is not defined by excess or rarity alone, but by balance.
Balance between function and design.
Between history and condition.
Between subtlety and recognisability.
It is this equilibrium that continues to make the reference 1680 one of the most compelling vintage Rolex watches to collect today.
%20(1200%20x%20768%20px).png)
.png)
"I should declare my hand. I have a weakness for pictures that punch above their physical weight, and for artists who have been quietly underrated for too long. This pair is both. They are intimate enough to live with at close quarters and serious enough to repay any amount of looking. If the market has lately shown signs of catching up with eighteenth-century Irish painting and I think it has, these two small panels feel, to me, like exactly the sort of thing that will look obvious in twenty years’ time."
Adam’s is honoured to present works from the collection of Lord Rossmore in the upcoming Country House Collections auction at Howth Castle on 28th April. It is seldom that an influential Irish family collection that has survived through the generations comes to the open market.
Works Sold at Adam’s Now in the Irish National Collection
A great opportunity to purchase both established and lesser-known artist’s work at an accessible price point, the Online Picture Auction is the first of many sales to be hosted at Adam’s in 2026. It is perfect for those looking to start a collection and the discerning collector alike.
Through this article, let our expert Adam Pearson guiding you to the (re)discovery of the once established Irish painter Richard O’Neill.
Buying at Auction and the Role of Antiques in a Modern Home
Important Irish Art Auction Highlights
Oliver Dowling Collection by Aidan Dunne
2024 is a year in which Adam’s wants to recognise the key role buying antique furniture and furnishings at auction contributes greatly to the sustainable initiative. In 2019 the Environmental Protection Agency reported stark figures that each year in Ireland 1.2 million reusable bulky items, primarily furniture goes into landfill. Similar to the problem of ‘fast fashion’, the constant production and consumption of new items is leading to rapidly growing waste problem. We want to acknowledge those who are already buying second hand or antique furniture at auction and to encourage new buyers by highlighting the benefits of acquiring affordable, well-made quality items that are built to last.
Irish author, recipe creator and lifestyle influencer, Indy Parsons, selects her favourite pieces from our upcoming Fine Jewellery & Watches auction
.jpg)
Cork-born Irish actress, Sarah Greene, selects her favourite pieces from our upcoming Fine Jewellery & Watches auction
Yvonne Aupicq had met Orpen, we understand, while working as a nurse during the war. He had been admitted to hospital with a suspected case of scabies which ended up being a far more serious case of blood poisoning as he recounts in his wartime memoir ‘An Onlooker in France’. Their relationship continued after 1918 when Orpen was appointed as the official artist to The Paris Peace Conference. They relocated to capital and over the following decade he painted her numerous times, often nude as in Amiens 1914, or The Rape and Nude Girl Reading (1921). Working with her as his model during these early years after the war allowed Orpen an opportunity to re-fuel his creativity.
Editor-in-Chief of IMAGE Publications, Lizzie Gore-Grimes, selects her favourite pieces from our upcoming Fine Jewellery & Watches auction
Our upcoming Fine Jewellery & Watches auction on September 13th features a prime example of Van Cleef & Arpel's renowned 'Mystery Setting'
Our June auction offers a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to acquire one of the great masterpieces of Irish art and icons of Dublin’s history.
Georgia Chiesa selects some of her favourite lots in the upcoming Vintage Wine & Spirits Auction
"Beating the bounds is a tradition that can be traced back to the medieval period. At this time, land was divided into parishes and the clergy and church wardens held the responsibility for its upkeep and management. It was up to the Church to ensure that its parishioners knew the local boundary lines and, before maps became commonplace, this had to be kept as a mental record."
Adam’s in conjunction with Suzanne MacDougald are proud to host an online timed auction of artworks to aid the Irish Red Cross’s humanitarian work in delivering vital services to millions of people impacted by the conflict in Ukraine. With no buyers premium 100% of the hammer price will go directly to the Irish Red Cross.
Ros Drinkwater writes of Jack B Yeats' 'The Boat' in the Business Post:
With a consolidated result of €320,000,the At Home sale in Stephan’s Green, was a great success.
James Adam & Sons Ltd, Fine Art Auctioneers and Valuers, 26 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2,
D02 X665, Ireland
